Monthly Archives: June 2008

Reflections on Papua New Guinea

Posted by on June 23, 2008

On the dive boat in Kimbe Bay

On the dive boat in Kimbe Bay

This isn’t going to be one coherent article. There are too many things to say and I have too many observations to try and make it one flowing story. Instead, I’m just going to try and break everything up in small chunks of thoughts. I don’t have a lot of photos from PNG either, because while I was there I was either on a boat, underwater, or it was raining.
  • I feel bad about how I approached going to PNG. There is so much bad press given to the country that I think it influenced my plans for visiting. The Top 10 Hells on Earth list that came out is, in hindsight, pretty absurd. Anything which puts Oklahoma City as worse than Baghdad or Chernobyl should be rejected at face. Port Moresby is a dump, there is no doubt about that. But Port Moresby isn’t a reflection of PNG anymore than Detroit is a reflection of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. I spoke with several ex-pats who have been living in PNG for decades about the bad press which Port Moresby has gotten and some of the things I’ve read. They all thought it was silly. You should be alert when visiting Port Moresby, but you don’t have to be under armed guard at all times. Everyone I met was very nice, even when they had to cancel a flight I had leaving Kimbe.
  • Sign in Pidgin

    Sign in Pidgin

  • Hotel rooms in Port Moresby are expensive. Very expensive for what you get. You can expect to pay over $200 a night for a simple hotel room. Rooms in the city are booked full almost every night. The high commodity prices right now have spurred a boom in commodity prices. My flights in and out were packed mostly with Australian and Chinese businessmen.
  • PNG is poor. Of that there is no doubt, however no one seems to be going hungry. PNG is mostly a rural country. Outside of Port Moresby, there are no really big cities in the country (and Port Moresby isn’t really that big). Unlike many of the Pacific countries I’ve visited, PNG is self sufficient in food. This is due to having plenty of arable land unlike most Pacific countries, and the fact that agriculture has been practiced in PNG for thousands of years. (When Europeans arrived in PNG they found the locals growing sweet potatos, which are native to South America. They have no idea how they got there.)
  • The island where we had lunch while diving

    The island where we had lunch while diving

  • I’ve noticed a big difference between poor countries. Many of the places in the Pacific I’ve see you see lots of idle people. People sitting around doing nothing. I saw lots of idleness in PNG. In places like the Philippines or Indonesia, you can see poverty, but you don’t see as much idleness. People are doing stuff, hustling and trying to get by. Mostly this happens when people move from the country to the city and there is nothing for them to do. There are no jobs and there is no land to farm. This is the reason behind so many of the problems in Port Moresby. Idle hands really are the devils playground.
  • I have been to many places in the Pacific where WWII battles took place: Guadalcanal, Guam, Saipan. However, the history was probably more palpable in New Britain than it was anywhere else. I saw a sunken Japanese Zero while I was diving. Pretty much every airport and landing strip in the country was originally built during the war. I’ve been told it isn’t too hard to find planes and other artifacts out in the forest. The Papua New Guinea campaign looms much larger in Australian history than in US history, even though most of the heavy lifting was done by American troops. I learned quite a bit by listening to some locals tell stories during dinner.
  • The water in Kimbe Bay, where I went diving, was very warm. Not only is the bay naturally warm, but it is in the middle of an El Nino. When I dove, my dive computer showed the water temperature around 30C (about 85F). The only evidence of coral bleaching I’ve seen on my trip was in Kimbe Bay. There wasn’t a lot, but there was some.
  • One of the most spectacular things I’ve seen on my trip so far was a tree on a palm oil plantation on New Britain. The tree was filled with lightening bugs, and all the lightening bugs were blinking in unison. There were so many bugs in the tree that it looked like the kind of trees you see in mall parking lots during Christmas filled with white lights…. except these were blinking. I’m not sure I could have taken a photo of it that did it justice even if I had my camera with me.
  • View from my room, 20 min from Port Moresby

    View from my room, 20 min from Port Moresby

  • Just a week after I left New Britian, the volcano near Rabaul erupted. Rabaul was covered with several feet of ash in 1994. The entire city had to be moved. All of Kimbe Bay was ringed with cinder cones. I’ve never seen a place with so many. If you were out on the bay and looked around, you could see a dozen small volcanoes.
  • There are over 800 active, living languages in PNG. This is not an exaggeration. I asked the locals I met what languages they spoke, and they all spoke their village language, pidgin, and English. Pidgin is more widespread than English and some remote villages have very few pidgin speakers. Literally, villages just a few miles apart can speak languages intelligible to each other. I met some Americans at the airport who have lived in PNG for 10 years with an organization trying to translate the bible into every language in PNG. Personally, I’d just translate it into pidgin and teach everyone pidgin. Seems a lot simpler. I’ve encountered people who work, worked, or had parents who worked for such organization who try to translate the bible into ever smaller languages. I guess they are trying to complete the set.
  • I very much want to go back to PNG. Almost every place I’ve been I have a list of things I’d go see if I ever returned. I think the list for PNG is the biggest one I have. I very much would like to go back to see the highlands, which is a culture which seems very different from what I saw on New Britain. If anyone in the future who is thinking of visiting PNG should read this article, don’t be afraid. Avoid Port Moresby, but there isn’t anything to see or do there anyhow.

Feeling like 953,988 bucks*

Posted by on June 22, 2008

My cold is over. My stomach ache is gone, I got a haircut and I feel a lot better. Tomorrow I’m leaving Perth and taking a bus/train combo down to the town of Margaret River. Margaret River is about as far South West as you can possible get in Australia. In Margaret River, I will be as far from home as I will probably ever be on my trip; about 10,750 miles (17,200km) from Minneapolis. The antipodal point of Minneapolis is in the Indian Ocean, so this is the closest piece of inhabited land to it.

My trip to Margaret River is for a particular purpose, of which I’ve determined that come hell or high water I am going to accomplish. The podcast has changed some of the priorities of what I see and do while traveling. Much of my travels have been your typical run of the mill “go to X and see Y” variety. I’ve done a lot of things from bungee jumping to swimming with whale sharks, but I haven’t gone out of my way to meet particular people or see particular events. I’m going to start to do that and I’m going to start with this trip to Margaret River. If all goes well, you’ll see the results in a week or two.

I should also make note of the new video by “Where The Hell Is Matt”. He’s the guy who put the video on YouTube of him dancing all over the world. He has a new video up which he has spent the last 14 months working on. I subscribe to his blog and it seems like much of his last year has been traveling for the purpose of making the video, rather than his original video which was just a side project of his travels. I found it interesting because I’ve been to some of the exact spots which he danced. (In particular, the spot in Tonga where he got hit by waves. This is a photo I took at the Tonga blowholes). I get a lot of reactions from people in the vein of “oh, just like that dancing guy”, so I figured I should let everyone know about it.

*The US equivalent of $1m Australian dollars at current exchange rates

Daily Travel Photo – Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

Posted by on June 22, 2008

Queen Victoria Statue, Melbourne, Australia

Queen Victoria Statue, Melbourne, Australia

Most of the growth and development of Australia occurred during the reign of Queen Victoria in the 19th Century. Given the length of her rule, there are an abnormal number of things in Australia named after her. There are two states (Victoria and Queensland), rivers, mountains, lakes, and almost anything which be named after a person has been affixed with “Victoria” or “Queen”. This statue is in the botanical gardens in Melbourne.

Still in Perth

Posted by on June 20, 2008

I’m still in Perth. The last week I haven’t given much attention to the website. The change in temperature here has caused me to come down with a very bad cold. Also, I’ve had a horrible stomach ache over the last few days. I have three posts ready to go which have been sitting, ready to go, but I just haven’t done the last finishing bits on them.

I finally got my podcast up on iTunes. If you have iTunes on your computer, you can subscribe to the podcast by clicking here. When it becomes available, it will automatically be in your iTunes player.

I’m going to be moving south a bit before I head to Uluru. I’m going to take the bus tomorrow and go visit the Margaret River Valley south of Perth. They have a species of Eucalyptus here, which is second only to the ones found in Tasmania. They also have a very large forest walk up in the canopy of the trees. I will also visit some of the wineries in the area.

I think I’m suffering from Australia fatigue. I’m wanting to move quickly through the remaining parts of the country. When all is said and done, I can honestly say I’ve explored the hell out of this country. I’m ready and anxious to move on to SE Asia.

Daily Travel Photo – Easter Island

Posted by on June 20, 2008

Maoi on Easter Island

Maoi on Easter Island

This is Ahu Tongariki on Easter Island. This ahu (the name of the platform of the maoi, or statues) was rebuilt by a Japanese television crew in 1992. All of the ahu on Easter Island had been toppled by the start of the 20th Century. All the photos you see of standing maoi were either reconstructed in the last 50 years or were never taken out of the quarry.