Monthly Archives: April 2009
The Seven Wonders of Egypt
Great Pyramids and Sphinx
The very fist list of wonders created by Herodotus in the 5th Century BC had the pyramids on the list. In 2,500 years, not much has changed. The Great Pyramids and the Giza Complex are still one of the most impressive sights in the world. The pyramids are from the Upper Kingdom of Egypt and are older than most of the temples you will find in Egypt, which date after the unification of the Upper and Lower Kingdoms. As such, there is little in the way of hieroglyphs and other Egyptian artwork which can be seen at the site. The pyramids were the tombs of In addition to the pyramids themselves, you can also see the funeral boat of Khufu. The biggest downside to visiting the pyramids are the very aggressive men who try to get you to buy camel rides.
St. Catherine’s Monastery
Egypt isn’t all temples and ruins which date back to the time of the Pharaoh’s. There is a great deal of history in Egypt from the Greek, Roman, and Byzantine periods as well. The St. Catherine monastery is located in the middle of the Sinai Peninsula. St. Catherine is believed to be the oldest working christian monastery in the world, dating its founding to 527 and 565. It was created on orders of the Emperor Justinian at the spot where it is believed Moses saw the burning bush and received the Ten Commandments. The monastery is run by the Greek Orthodox Church and contains about 120 of the oldest Eastern Orthodox icons in the world.
Despite its location near the pyramids, Cairo was essentially founded as a Muslim city in the 10th Century. Many of the oldest mosques and madrases in the world can be found in Cairo. The highlight of old Cairo is the Cairo Citadel and the Mohamed Ali Mosque. The mosque is one of the largest of the old Muslim world and the design inside rivals many of the largest cathedrals of Europe. From the Citadel, you can look out to the Giza plateau and see the pyramids on a day where smog is limited. This is the section of town with the souqs (markets) and attractions many of the tourists who visit the city. Old Cairo was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.
I suppose you could say that the Nile River shouldn’t be considered a Wonder of Egypt because in many respects the Nile IS Egypt. If it wasn’t for the Nile, Egypt wouldn’t exist, neither in its modern or ancient form. Other than the strip of green on either side of the river, most of Egypt is nothing by barren desert. It is the Nile which gave rise to Egyptian culture and made it the breadbasket of the Roman Empire. If you are in Egypt you need to at least take a falucca trip on the river, and if possible take an overnight cruise from Luxor to Aswan. Taking a cruise will not only let you see how average Egyptian farmers work the land, but it will also give you a chance to see some temples you would not get to see in Luxor or Aswarn: Edfu and Komombo Temples.
Alexandria is a city with an amazing amount of history. It was founded by Alexander the Great. It was where Julius Caesar came ashore in search of Pompey in the Roman Civil War. It was here the great Library of Alexandria was created and later destroyed. It was home to one of the original seven wonders of the world: the Pharos Lighthouse. Anthony and Cleopatra killed themselves here. Despite all this history, almost all of the great structures have been destroyed. There are many smaller structures still to be found in Alexandria, however: Pompey’s Pillar, the Roman Theater, and the Greco-Roman museum. One of the highlights is nine meters below the surface where you can dive and see the ruins of the Pharos Lighthouse. It is also home to the new Biblioteca Alexandria, which hearkens back to the old library.
Abu Simbel are two temples created by Ramesses II (aka the Pharoah played by Yul Brenner in the Ten Commandments) to celebrate a victory over the Nubians who lived south of Egypt on the Nile in what is now Sudan. By its own right Abu Simbel is an impressive place to visit. What makes it really impressive, and the thing that really makes it a Wonder of Egypt, is that the entire complex was moved in the 60’s to preserve it from the rising waters of the Aswan High Dam. The entire temple and sculptures carved into the mountain were carved up and moved 60m up and 200m back from the former location of the river. They did such a good job that if it wasn’t for the pile of dirt covering the temples, you’d almost never know that everything had been moved. If you ever visit, pay close attention to the graffitti carved into the stone by British vandals in the 19th Century.
Karnak and Luxor
Karnak and Luxor are technically separate temples connected by a road known as the Avenue of the Sphinxes, but because they are close close together I’ve decided to list them as a single entry. Luxor and Karnak are both in the middle of urban Luxor City. Luxor Temple is of similar design to other Egyptian temples like Eduf and is best known for its intact obelisk at the front of the temple. Karnak is by far the largest temple in Egypt. It has almost an acre of stone pillars which gives you an idea of just how massive the original temple must have been. You can walk from one temple to the other, but it is probably easier to hire a horse drawn carriage. Don’t worry, the carriage drivers will find you.
Other articles in Gary’s Wonders of the World series:
Seven Wonders of the Philippines | Seven Wonders of Australia | Seven Wonders of New Zealand | Seven Wonders of Japan | Seven Wonders of Egypt
I’ve been in Tel Aviv for two days now. It is a very different city than Jerusalem. For starters, I haven’t seen a single Orthodox Jew here. Zero. Everything here is much more laid back and secular than Jerusalem. In addition to a very large beach area, it also seems very artsy. Some of the neighborhoods remind me of San Francisco or Portland.
My laptop situation is looking much better. The issue was with my power brick. I didn’t think it was something that could break that easily considering there are no moving parts, but I was wrong. They also ran a diagnostic on my battery when I told them I could only get 2 hours of life out of it. I’m getting both replaced but I have to jump through some hoops by calling Apple, getting a case number than I can give the Apple Store here. As of now I have my laptop and a working power brick, but no battery. That means I have to be very careful about unplugging my laptop.
I’ll be here a bit longer than I had hoped because of the delays with the Apple Store and everything being closed for Passover. That will give me a chance to catch up on some photos I haven’t been able to work on in the last week.
Tel Aviv is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. It is supposed to be for its urban architecture. The problem is, I have no idea what exactly is so special about it. Tel Aviv is known as the “White City” but I’m not sure what I should try to take a photo of to capture it. It has replaced the Sydney Opera House as the lamest World Heritage Site I’ve visited on my trip. If anyone who has been to Tel Aviv has suggestions for a good representative Bauhaus building, let me know.
I’m going to use Tel Aviv as a base to do some day trips north to Haifa/Acre and to Nazareth. It seems cheaper and easier than the hassle of cabs and buses and moving all my stuff.
Easter in Jerusalem
I got up Easter morning to the sound of bagpipes (yes bagpipes) and headed off to the Church of the Holy Seplechure. While it is Easter for Western Christians, it is Palm Sunday for the Orthodox Churches, and it is the anniversary of the fight fight breaking out between the Greeks and Armenians last year. After witnessing the spectacle which was this morning, fist fights do not surprise me in the slightest.
The thing to know about the church is that it is jointly administered by the Latin Patriarch, the Greek Orthodox Patriarch, and Armenian Orthodox Patriarch with minor involvement by the Ethiopian Orthodox, Egyptian Coptics, and Syrian Orthodox. It is run under a very screwed up system set in place back in 1852 called the Status Quo, which was basically….. the status quo in 1852. Parts of the church are under different responsibilities of different churches and any area in common has to be changed with the agreement of everyone…which means nothing every changes.
The center point of the church is the spot where it believed Jesus was entombed and rose from the dead. Inside the dome of the church is a smaller building about the size of a garage.
The Easter mass was being said by the Latin Patriarch (aka Catholic Bishop) in the front of the Seplechure structure while at the same time the Coptics were having the Palm Sunday service at the rear chapel. They are about 15m away from each other. There are also a lot more Catholics than there are Coptics.
Unlike most churches, there are no pews, no open space for people to gather, no sound system to hear what is going on, and no sort of permanent structures at all for the mass to take place. Everything is quickly dismantled before and after the service.
The Latin service and the Coptic service began at about the same time. The Coptics would chant and drown out the Latins and the Latin organ would start up and drown out the Coptics, and then the Greeks would fire up the church bells and drown out everyone. It was like a battle of the bands, except all the band were playing at the same time. I could just see the Greek Orthodox Patriarch giving an itnervew explaining how they have special church bells which can go all the way up to 11.
While everything was going on, they had ushers begin to take down all the chairs which were being used by the priests. Because of the arrangement, everything the Latin Patriarch uses for mass has to be set up and taken down every day. The Coptics had a procession right through the Catholic crowd and then the Catholics had a procession right through the Coptic crowd.
I found the Church of the Holy Seplechure to be so facinating that I am considering writing a book on it. There are so many things unique about it and that seperate it from any other church in the world, it deserves a more indepth treatment. The ladder I spoke of in my previous post is a great metaphore for all the problems the church faces: it hasn’t moved in over 150 years because no one can agree on anything.
Later in the day I saw a group of Arab Scouts playing bagpipes wearing Scottish Tartans. I had seen so many things in Jerusalem, but this one just took the cake. I bust out laughing when I saw this. I have no idea why they have a bagpipe band, but it was just another one of those things you will only find in Jerusalem.
Jerusalem: Good Friday Edition
I got up early to visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to view/photo the events going on for Good Friday. The crowd which was there for the morning service wasn’t as big as I thought it would be. No bigger than what you would see on a Sunday at any large church in the US. The doors were locked until 8am and there was a real diverse mix of people outside waiting. A group of Ethiopian Christians, a group of what I think were American Protestants in what looked like choir robes, about seven different orders of nuns, a ton of Franciscan priests, pilgrims from all over, and a bunch of Israeli cops and members of the media.
The doors were opened by the two Arab men I mentioned in a previous post. The doors of the church were closed after everyone entered for 2.5 hours. Both the place where Jesus died and where he was buried are within the church,. The spot where he was believed to have died it up a flight of stairs and is a pretty small area. The main floor space of the church is dedicated to the tomb.
I didn’t stick around for the 2.5 hours. I went and got breakfast and got a good spot to take photos for the Via Dolorosa.
What a madhouse that was.
For those who aren’t familiar, the Via Dolorosa is the street that follows (sort of) the route Jesus is believed to have walked from being sentenced to death to crucifixion. Following the route (also called the Stations of the Cross) is a tradition developed by Catholic pilgrims in the Middle Ages when the Crusaders controlled Jerusalem. If you saw the Mel Gibson movie “The Passion of the Christ”, the whole movie basically takes place on the Via Dolorosa.
The first station of the cross takes place in the courtyard of what is currently a Muslim school. It was formerly the location of the palace of the Roman governor (which at the time would have been Pontius Pilate). The fact that the stations of the cross are usually performed on a Friday, and the school is not in session on Friday, works out well for everyone.
The Via Dolorosa is the reason why many pilgrims come to Jerusalem. The route is not exact. The streets do not line up with streets from 2,000 years ago. Some places are only a guess as there is evidence of anything, only legends and traditions. In fact, there is no real way to know if the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is on the spot where Jesus died. There really isn’t any better location, and there isn’t any reason to think it didn’t happen there.
As people began to gather in the courtyard, there was a large group of Boy/Girl Scouts which showed up. I thought it was odd. It would cost a lot to fly scouts to Jerusalem. I also noticed a lot of people with hymnals in Arabic. Also odd. Eventually a large group came in carrying a huge cross and I didn’t know what language they were speaking. I eventually realized that half of the people who were there, and all of the scouts, were Arab Christians. Even though most Palestinians are Muslim, there are a sizable number of Christians, and they were representing in full force. Christian hymns sung in Arabic sound totally different than the Muslim calls to prayer you hear sung in Arabic.
Trying to cram all those people down the streets took forever. I sort of assumed that they would stop, pray, stop, pray, until they got to the church. I ended up at the back of the line and didn’t really get to see anything in the procession once it left the school. It just seemed like a big march of people from the back end.
There were a lot of video cameras from news outlets from all over the world. Of what I could identify, there were crews from Poland, South Korea, somewhere in Latin American (at least one), and the US. There were maybe a dozen I couldn’t identify.
Because there were so many people, I didn’t even make it to the church. I would up around Russian Orthodox Chapel where they found the segment of the old wall, not too far from the church.
It was the first time I tried to photograph a large event. Lesson: you can’t really photograph everything. Your best hope is to stakeout a spot somewhere on the route and take photos there.
I understand why people come to Jerusalem during Holy Week on pilgrimage, but honestly, it isn’t really built to handle a lot of people. Not the Christian Quarter at least. I think you’d have a better experience if you came at another time.
I’m considering heading to Tel Aviv tomorrow because Easter is going to probably be even worse. I was going to go north and then to Tel Aviv, but my computer problems have changed the schedule. I’ve stayed in Jerusalem longer than I had originally planned because of Holy Week, so I’m going to pick up the pace through the rest of Israel.
Free eBook: 25 Favorite Travel Photos
I’ve finally launched my new ebook “25 Favorite Travel Photo”. These are 25 of my favorite photos taken during the last two years of my travels. Each photo is in a larger format than you might normally see on my blog with additional commentary about how and why I took the photo.
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I hope everyone enjoys reading it as much as I did making it!