I’ve put together my first batch of travel themed wallpapers for the iPhone. All of these photos were taken by myself during my travels over the last two years. Just click on the image to view the 320×480 wallpaper and then save the image to your computer.
Monthly Archives: March 2009
Memphis and its Necropolis: the Pyramid Fields from Giza to Dahshur
From the World Heritage inscription for Memphis and its Necropolis: the Pyramid Fields from Giza to Dahshur:
The capital of the Old Kingdom of Egypt has some extraordinary funerary monuments, including rock tombs, ornate mastabas, temples, and pyramids. In ancient times, the site was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the World.
There isn’t much I can say about the pyramids because everyone has seen at least one National Geographic special on them and probably did a presentation on them in 4th grade. Visiting the pyramids was one of the most frustrating experiences I’ve ever had from a tourist perspective.
Memphis and its Necropolis: the Pyramid Fields from Giza to Dahshur is a cultural site inscribed into the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Egypt in 1979. The secular structure and burial site is not just a popular tourist attraction, it is also an important cultural site that shaped the history of this country. The Pyramids have earned universal recognition for its exception construction methods. In addition, it also represents an important civilization that is deeply embedded in Egypt’s history.
Memphis is the capital of the Old Kingdom of Egypt. It was founded in 3100 BC and served as capital until 2200 BC. Memphis and its ruins are located south of Cairo and on the western bank of Nile River. Among these ruins are temples, pyramids, rock tombs, and other funerary monuments.
How to Get Here
If you want to visit Memphis and its Necropolis: the Pyramid Fields from Giza to Dahshur, your best jump-off point is via Cairo. Once in Cairo, you can take a bus at Midan Tahrir in order to get to the pyramids. Mida Tahrir is a public square located in the central part of Cairo. Once you arrive, you can ride a horse or camel to get to the pyramids. When you ride with animals, make sure to pay only when you arrive or else you will be forced to pay for another ride if your first option goes lame.
Another option is to ride a taxi to the pyramids. The taxis in Cairo are black and white in color. Important reminder when riding a taxi: single women should sit on the back. Sitting in front would be seen as sexual invitation.
Finally, you can purchase a tour bus ticket through your hotel. You will be picked up at your hotel and be taken to the pyramids. In addition, a tour guide will accompany you to the Pyramids.
Giza and Dahshur
Giza is composed of ancient monuments with the Pyramid of Giza being the most popular one. Within Giza, you will find historical structures and monuments. The Great Pyramids of Giza consist of three pyramid complexes. There is also a massive sculpture known as the Great Sphinx. Other features within the complex of ancient monuments in Giza are worker’s village, industrial complex and several cemeteries.
Dahshur is home to a royal necropolis located at the heart of the desert. It is located roughly 40 kilometers from Cairo. Like Giza, Dahshur is also home to several pyramids. Two of these pyramids are the oldest and largest in Egypt: Red Pyramid and Bent Pyramid.
About the Egyptian Pyramids
When it comes to the Egyptian pyramids, they do not need any introduction. This is the only structure from the list of ancient Seven Wonders of the World that still exists until today. It is also Africa’s most popular monument and tourist attraction. These massive structures are tombs of pharaohs and their antiquity is one of the most interesting features about them. In fact, it is not only the largest stone monument in the world, but also the earliest.
Memphis and its Necropolis: the Pyramid Fields from Giza to Dahshur is a collection of the best and most enduring structures. Hence, UNESCO together with the Department of Antiquities of Giza (made up of Egyptian conservators and architects) are working together to build a site management plan focused on conservation of the key structures within the ancient city of Memphis, as well as Giza and Dahshur.
View the complete list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Egypt.
View the list of all of the UNESCO World Heritage sites I have visited on my travels.
Shalom! First Thoughts of Israel
I have arrived Israel.
40 years ago, Apollo 8 took the famous photo of the Earth rising over the surface of the Moon. After that photo, many people ooohed and aaaahed about how when you look at the Earth from space, there are no borders or countries and everyone is really just part of one big human race.
I get what they are trying to say, but the reality is we do live in a world with borders and those borders can mean a great deal. Life on one side of an arbitrary line in the dirt can be totally different than life on the other. That really hit home when I started my trip on an Amtrack train and was about 100m from the Mexican border outside of El Paso, TX.
I am sitting only a few miles from where I was last night, but it seems like a world away. I can literally SEE Aqaba from where I’m sitting. It is right there. I can see the hotel I was at last night. If Aqaba and Eilat were in the same country, I could probably walk there in under an hour. Yet, that line I crossed today has changed a lot.
The border crossing was strange. I was the only person crossing during the entire time I was there. Leaving Jodan was very professional and straight forward. The crossing is a few miles out of Aqaba, but not too far. I had to pay a 5 dinar exit fee which I didn’t know about, and was glad I still had a few dinars on me.
Once the Jordanians let me go, I walked with my backpack alone down the middle of a 100m road between the checkpoints with fencing and razor wire on each side. It was the sort of scene you’d see when trading prisoners of war. (I don’t want to give the impression the border was hostile or militarized. It was actually very casual on both sides. I’ve seen US/Canadian border crossings which seemed more tense.)
Where as the Jordanians were in military uniforms, the Israelis were dressed very casually. Also, most of the security team on the Israeli side were female. The security check was very straight forward and quick. They did go through my camera and lenses, but nothing else out of the ordinary.
The passport control desk is where I expected problems. They asked why I was in the UAE, Oman, Bahrain and Qatar. I said, “I am traveling around the world”. They then preceded to ask me a ton of questions including the name of my father and his father (who passed away 40 years ago). They also asked me if I had an email address, and I used that opportunity to give them my URL and to tell them about my website and that they should check it out. I think it helped.
I assume they sent the information to some office somewhere, where they ran a check on me. I’m sure if they looked at my website, it added credibility to my story and help convince them I was not a terrorist. The total time from crossing the line to being given the OK to leave was about 90 minutes. Most of the people I asked on Twitter assumed it would take about two hours. Some guessed seven to eight hours.
Life on this side of the line is very different. Different language, system of writing, religion, ethics, morals, politics and aesthetic. I should note that Aqaba is a very nice city. I enjoyed it very much. I didn’t move from the third world to the first. It was a lateral move in terms of the development levels between the two cities. Also, Jordan is probably the most liberal Arab country I’ve visited.
While Aqaba is a resort town, Eilat is really a resort town. You look in the water and there are tons of sailboards and jetskis, hundreds of people sunning themselves on the beach, and swimsuits. Girls in swimsuits. Having mostly seen women in hijabs for the last three months, it was sort of jarring to see that (but welcome!)
Eilat is certainly more expensive than Aqaba. I poked my head in a McDonald’s in a mall across the street from where I’m staying to look at the menu. About $7 for a regular size value meal.
I should also note on this inaugural post from Israel that I am not going to write about the political problems between the Palestinians and Israelis while I’m here. I’m planning to visit some Palestinian communities in the West Bank and I may write about it more in depth once I’ve left the region and have had some time to think about it. Suffice it to say I’m not ignorant of what is happening and I am not going to ignore what is happening while I’m here, even if I’m not writing about it every day.
From the World Heritage inscription for Historic Cairo:
Tucked away amid the modern urban area of Cairo lies one of the world’s oldest Islamic cities, with its famous mosques, madrasas, hammams and fountains. Founded in the 10th century, it became the new center of the Islamic world, reaching its golden age in the 14th century.
The highlight of old Islamic Cairo for me was the Citadel and the Mohamed Ali Mosque, which is the most elegant and beautiful mosque I’ve seen on my trip. This photo is of the inside of the mosque which rivals any of the great cathedrals of Europe.
The city of Cairo in Egypt is divided into several sections. One of these sections is Historic Cairo, which is also commonly referred to as Islamic Cairo. This part of the city was recognized by UNESCO as one of the World Heritage Sites in Egypt. It was inscribed by UENSCO in 1979 for its cultural value. This historic center is located on the eastern bank of the Nile River and consists of more than 600 classified monuments that were built from as early as the 7th century!
These structures, which include Islamic monuments and important mosques, signify the Islamic culture and history of the city. At the same time, there are also several Roman fortifications, churches and other ruins within this district of Historic Cairo.
How to Get Here
To get to Historic Cairo, there are several travel options available. Cairo International Airport is the second largest airport in Africa with over 16 million passengers annually. It is also served by several international airline companies. Therefore, you can travel from anywhere in the world to Cairo by booking any of these flights to Cairo International Airport.
Aside from airplane travel, you can also get to Cairo via plane. The Ramses Station is the main railway station in Cairo. You can also get to Cairo via any other train routes from various other cities in Egypt. If you choose to travel via train, it is recommended that you purchase your tickets ahead of time to guarantee your seat.
Traveling via bus is another good option, especially if you are coming from some other parts of Egypt. Buses serve trips to Cairo from basically any other part of Egypt. Meanwhile, there are micro buses that leave to and from Cairo to a wide range of destinations. These can be uncomfortable (as compared to traditional buses) but they are cheap.
If you wish to rent a car and drive to Cairo by yourself, that is highly discouraged. It can be overwhelming for travelers to navigate the streets of Cairo and the traffic situation is bad. It is better to use public transport so you can relax during the trip.
About Historic Cairo
The history of Historic Cairo and its structures date back to the time of the Arab Muslim invasion of Egypt. This took place in the mid-7th century. During this time, the first mosque in Africa was built – ‘Amr ibn al-‘As Mosque. Throughout the years of their invasion, the rulers built more mosques and palaces within the area near the first mosque that was ever built in the continent. The district of Islamic Cairo itself was founded in the late 7th century.
After the Arab Muslims, several other invaders followed including Napoleon’s French Army and the British. Eventually, Egypt gained independence from its rulers in 1922.
Today, the monuments and structures within Historic Cairo are in serious threat. Many of these structures are in a state of neglect and decay. However, the naming of the site as a UNESCO World Heritage Site should further enhance efforts of conservation and preservation.
View the complete list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Egypt.
View the list of all of the UNESCO World Heritage sites I have visited on my travels.
On to Petra
I’m now in Petra. I spent the last two nights in a bedouin camp in Wadi Rum. I spent all of yesterday there taking a camel through the desert taking photos, slept in a tent, and ate semi-traditional bedouin food with mini version of the UN: Italians, Koreans, Japanese, Sweeds, Malaysians, British, French, Germans, Jordanians, Russians, and Belgians.
I’m going to just work on my photos today so I hope to have something up shortly. It was really an incredible experience.
I’ll be in Petra for 3 nights before heading back to Aqaba and crossing over into Israel. From what I’ve been told I may have a hard time at the border because I have a UAE stamp in my passport. So much for saving Israel for my last stop in the Middle East.
Question & Answer #4
@BrooklynNomad Are there days when you just want to give up your travels, call it a day and go back to a 9-5 life?
Never. There are days however when I feel I need to just stop moving for a week or two. I sort of feel like that now. I found a month in Egypt to be the most stressful month I’ve had while traveling. I’ll be writing more on that soon.
Honestly, I’ve never really had a 9-5 job for more than a few months in my life. I have a very difficult time working for others. I once had a minimum wage job after I graduated college working at a factory that made baseball cards. I figured out how I could eliminate my job after working there a day and told my boss. They didn’t care and I decided I never really wanted to work for someone else again.
@Muscati What do you with your stuff while you’re out taking in the sights? Do you trust the safety of the hotels you stay in?
For the most part, I do trust hotel/hostel rooms, but not 100%. When I’m out for the day I usually have my camera bag and all my camera gear with me. I will also have my iPod Touch in my pocket. The most valuable thing I leave in the room is my laptop, which I will always have locked with my cable lock. I don’t worry about my clothes being stolen. It would probably benefit me to get some new clothes at this point. Many of the lower end hotels and hostels do not provide daily room cleaning, which is actually a bit safer than hotels which do.
@umarsiddiqi how do you come up with cash required to pay the bills? Do you carry a lot of cash with you?
I get cash from ATM machines. I usually take out between $100-200 at a time. Depending on where I am, that can last a few days or more than a week. Using a credit card is also dependent on where I am. I have seldom used one since I’ve left Australia. Since I’ve been in the Middle East I’ve paid for a few hotels with it, but I mostly use cash. I have never used a travelers check. Most places don’t even accept them anymore.
@adam230 Has the popularity of your blog ever made you feel like a celebrity?
In the big scheme of things, this blog isn’t that big of a deal. The day I have groupies is the day I will feel like a celebrity……….FYI, I am taking applications for the position of groupie.
@linnetwoods Has anyone asked you whether you would have planned the trip differently with the benefit of hindsight & if so, how?
Um, you just did :) I’m not sure I would have planned it much differently. I went to the Pacific first and I’m glad I did. If I ever have to fly across the Pacific again, I’m going to make some stops in the Pacific.
@coqui2008 What’s the scariest country you have visited and why? or Which country have you felt the least safest in and why?
The biggest worry I had before I went somewhere was before I flew to Port Moresby in Papua New Guinea. Some article just came out which had listed it as the biggest “hell on Earth” a few days before I left. In the end, it wasn’t that big of a deal. It isn’t a place you want to spend a lot of time, nor do you want to walk around at night.
@Ashlenet If there was one language other than english you could be fluent in, what would have helped you most on your travels?
If you look at the list of places I’ve been, I’ve covered a lot of languages. Many of those countries, especially in the Pacific, commonly speak English. At this point in my trip, the most useful language would have been Bahasa (Malaysia/Indonesia/East Timor), Japanese, or Arabic. In the long run, the most useful languages would probably be Mandarin Chinese or Spanish. Spanish is something I really want to work on during the next year.
Off to Wadi Rum
Mr. Dryden: Lawrence, only two kinds of creature get fun in the desert: Bedouins and gods, and you’re neither. Take it from me, for ordinary men, it’s a burning, fiery furnace.
T.E. Lawrence: No, Dryden, it’s going to be fun.
-Lawrence of Arabia
My all time, #1 favorite movie is Lawrence of Arabia. It is good on so many different levels it is hard to describe. If you haven’t seen it, you owe it to yourself to do so. See it on the largest screen you possibly can. I have had the pleasure of watching it twice in my life in 70mm, once on a giant parabolic screen.
Most of the movie was filmed in Jordan and the stunning desert scenes were all shot around Wadi Rum, where I’m off to tomorrow. I’m excited to go and I’m excited to take photos. The weather is starting to warm up here, so I hope the night time conditions aren’t too cold. I’ve done the sleeping outside in the desert cold when I went to Uluru in Australia, and I have no desire to do it again.
I have no idea if I am going to have internet access in Wadi Rum. I’m guessing not, but who knows. I’m always surprised at where I find it.
After a few days in Wadi Rum I’m off to Petra for a few days before I’ll head back to Aqaba and cross over into Israel. I still may go to Amman, but I’ll have to cross over the border again. If I don’t do it that way, I’m looking at a trip up to Amman, back down to Aqaba and then back up the border to visit the sites in southern Israel.
21 Things you can do to experience traveling without leaving home
Not everyone has the means or the time to go traveling around the world like I do. Nonetheless, there are still some things you can do get some of the experiences of traveling. The biggest part of traveling is being out of your element. Doing things which you are not comfortable doing or which are not a normal part of your culture or daily routine. These things are a poor substitute, but can still give you a feel for what it is like to travel in foreign countries.
- Go visit a tourist attraction in your town you’ve never been to.
- Hang out at a hotel or local tourist attraction and strike up a conversation with someone not from your country.
- Do not listen, watch, or read any news from your own country for a week. Only get your news from foreign sources.
- Find a chat room online with people from a different country and talk to them for several hours. Help them practice their English.
- Go to an Indian restaurant and eat an entire meal without utensils.
- Take photos of your city where you live.
- Go for an extremely long walk. At least 5 hours. Try to do this with a camera.
- Pack a small bag with clothes and toiletries and live out of that bag for a week.
- Go to a bookstore or newsstand and buy a foreign newspaper or magazine.
- Learn about 10 phrases in a language you have never heard before.
- Pick an area of the world you know nothing about and learn about all the countries there.
- Go to a bank or currency exchange booth and get some money from some countries you’ve never been to. Carry this around in your wallet for a month.
- Watch a Bollywood or Nollywood movie. (India/Nigeria)
- Over the course of a week, eat a meal from countries from 5 different continents. Every every meal with the exact same person or by yourself.
- Go visit a house of worship for a religion you’ve never been in before.
- Go a day without using toilet paper. (oh yes. I’m quite serious)
- Go to a Thai/Schezwan/Mexican restaurant and order something with maximum spiciness. Try it even if you can’t eat it all.
- Visit a grocery store which caters to ethnic groups other than your own. Buy some sort of packaged snack food that you’ve never seen before. Also look for fruit you’ve never eaten before.
- Find a restaurant that serves parts of animals you do not normally eat (haggis, blood sausage, etc) and order that dish.
- Learn the rules of a sport you know nothing about. American Football or Baseball if you are not from North America. Cricket or Rugby if you are. Australian Rules Football for almost everyone else. Learn the difference between Rugby League and Rugby Union, or between the Canadian and American Football.
- Buy a t-shirt or other souvenir with the name of the city where you live.
- Vote for Everything-Everywhere.com for the 2009 Lonely Planet Travel Blog Awards for Best Travelogue….had to have something a bit self serving :)
Out of Africa
The last 60 hours have been interesting to say the least. To tell the story will take a bit of time and is a great reminder of how things on the road are totally out of your control.
The plan was to leave Luxor on Friday evening hoping to take a bus to Hurghada on the cost of the Red Sea. From here I was take a ferry for a 90 minute trip to Sharm El Sheik on the southernmost tip of the Sinai Pennisula and go up the coast to Dahab on Saturday. I’d make a day trip to St Catherine’s before heading to Jordan by ferry.
Things didn’t quite go according to schedule.
The bus ride from Luxor to Hurghada went smoothly enough for a six hour bus ride. I arrived in Hurghada at ten past midnight and where I was supposed to have a guy from a hotel where I had reserved a room waiting for me. There was no one there. I waited a full 30 minutes before walking across the street to another hotel and booking a room for the night. My bus was 10 minutes late, which in Egypt is right on time. If you can’t show up when you are supposed to, and I have no idea where your hotel is, then you lose my business.
The next morning I wake up, pack up all my stuff and get ready to make the trip to the ferry station. I was told that the boat leaved at noon, so I got there plenty early. I get to the ticket office only to find out that the ferry wasn’t running. It was in dry dock in Suez for repairs. I was going to have to go by bus.
If you look at a map, I basically had to go up the coast to Suez then back down the other side of the coast on the Sinai peninsula. The attraction of the ferry for a trip like this is pretty obvious. I flagged a cab which took me to the wrong bus station, and then got another cab which took me to the correct bus station. By this time it was 11:30am. The bus to Dahab wasn’t leaving until 11pm but there was a bus going to Suez at 1pm. I could go to Suez and then figure it out from there. I would at least be much closer even if I had to stay there overnight.
The bus was a real piece of shit. I’d like to put it in more gentile terms, but that is what it was. The seat cushions weren’t attached to the seats. There was just bare metal and a cushion on top. Everything was painted black. Every part of the bus was covered with dust and there was a big spare tire in the middle of the bus. The ride itself wasn’t too bad. Egypt around the Red Sea seems much cleaner and more developed the Egypt along the nile. The area around the north Red Sea contains what little oil industry Egypt has.
We pulled into Suez around 5:30pm. Up until then, I hadn’t see much in the way of industry in Egypt. It seemed Suez was a giant industrial park for the rest of the country. In addition to all the shipping going through the canal, there was evidence of factories, milling, and other signs of economic activity lacking in the rest of the country.
There was a bus leaving for Sharm El Sheik at 6:30pm. A German couple who was on my bus from Hurghada asked if I was interested in getting a private car to St. Catherine’s, the world oldest Christian monastery. It would cost more than the bus, but it would eliminate later bus rides from Sharm to Dahab and a day trip to St. Catherine’s. The bus would cost around 40 EGP and the car would cost about 100 EGP, but it would eliminate a night in Sharm, which would probably be expensive, and the future bus ride and day trips. I agreed.
The car we got was a minibus. This did no surprise me as this is how most of the private trips are arranged. As it was a minibus, there were also some other passengers that we were taking to drop off on the say to St. Catherine’s. This bothered the Germans. They expected to be the only passengers and to have a real car, not a van. I didn’t see what the big deal was. We were being taken to where we wanted to go for a price we agreed upon.
We drove under the Suez Canal and crossed from Africa to Asia. Probably the only place on earth you can cross continents underground. It was dark and I couldn’t see the canal or anything else, During the six hours we had to stop at eight police checkpoints and four times I had to produce my passport. I had no clue what they were looking for or what purpose they served, other than to make work for police.
We eventually pull into St. Catherine’s at about midnight, and the Germans inform me that they were not going to pay the driver the price they agreed upon. They (in reality the man in the group) were upset that the Egyptians only paid 50 pounds and we were paying 100. This seemed to him to be some great injustice. Also, he was also upset that he didn’t get to ride in a car. They argued with the driver for 30 minutes while I sat in the van freezing my ass off because it was midnight in March in the desert mountains.
I don’t know how things ended up, but I was embarrassed to have been associated with the German couple. We agreed upon 100 pounds and if he didn’t like the van or the other passengers he didn’t have to go. He knew all that when we started. Also, life isn’t fair. There is nothing in Egypt that tourists are going to pay the same price for as locals. That’s life. I didn’t get worked up over it because I wasn’t concerned so much about what other people were paying so much as what sort of value I was getting out of it. At 100 pounds it was a deal for me, even if someone else got to go for 50. If I hadn’t paid 100, the trip wouldn’t have happened.
The driver was a nice guy and took me to the guesthouse at St. Catherine’s. I was able to get a room for US$25 on the grounds of the monastery. I ended up paying the driver 120 just because I felt bad for what the Germans had done to him. (the poor guy must have felt like Poland). I finally got to go to bed.
I woke up and with all the activity of the night before forgot that I was in the mountains. I opened up the door of my room to see the sun hitting the mountain side right outside my door. It was a beautiful morning. I grabbed my camera and set out to take some photos of St. Catherine’s (a World Heritage Site) before I took the bus to Dahab. I walked around outside the walls of the monastery for a bit only to be denied entrance to the grounds of the monastery itself. In all the commotion I had forgotten it was Sunday. It was closed.
So far for those of you keeping score, we have a broken ferry, cheap ass Germans and a closed monastery. Now I had to decide what to do. I could stay another day and wait for the grounds to open on Monday, or I could just go to Dahab. I picked Dahab. Unfortunately, there was one bit of information I didn’t know. Dahab wasn’t the launching point for the ferry to Jordan. That was further north in Nuweiba. There were also no buses running so I ended up just taking another private car (this time the cost was totally on my shoulders) to go to the ferry terminal. I made the executive decision to cut my Egypt losses short and just go to Jordan today.
I get to Nuweiba and find out that the cost of a ticket for foreigners is US$75, which seemed really expensive. I arrived at 1pm and the boat was leaving at 3pm, so I paid the ticket (there was really no other way to get to Jordan) and set out to wait at the terminal. I met an Australian guy who was on my bus going to Abu Simbel and we chatted up. I also met some Canadians and Americans. Eventually it was time to get on the ferry. All the foreigners loaded on to a bus and went to the boat.
Just then we heard a siren and a convoy of Land Rovers and back Mercedes. Some government official, of which country I don’t know, wanted to take the ferry. The bus stopped and we waited for the official to get on the boat. As it turns out, not only was the loading delayed, the entire trip was canceled because the official wanted to take the whole ferry for himself and his entourage. WHAT. A. DICK.
Several hundred people including tourists from every major country on Earth were stranded so Senior Minister Abdul El Dickhead could travel without having to sit next to other people. That is a microcosm is what is wrong with Egypt. This wasn’t planned before hand. We were literally about to start boarding the ship when this guy showed up.
So back to the holding pen we go.
Eventually at 5:30pm, the boat has returned and we start the boarding process again. There was nothing about this entire process which made sense. We spent 90 minutes on the boat before we left. We (foreigners) had our passports checked 3 times on the boat, each time they looked for the exact same thing. They had a desk to get Jordanian stamps on the boat, which at first made sense, but they just took my passport and told me they would give it back when we arrived in Aqaba.
The passport process in Jordan was a mess. They tended to give preference to processing the tourists and less to processing the Egyptian men on the boat. They took our passports on the boat and then gave us a slip of paper to get our passports back later.
I am now in Aqaba where I am going to stay for two days to take care of some stuff. I have a box of stuff I want to mail out, a ton of emails to answer as well as some things to do on the website. The next week will take me to one of the new seven wonders of the world; Petra. I will also be going to Wadi Rum which is sort of exciting because Lawrence of Arabia is my favorite movie.