All About Fiji

Podcast Transcript

Located in the South Pacific is the nation of Fiji.

Fiji is an archipelago of 330 islands located about 1,100 nautical miles north of New Zealand.

It is a unique mix of Pacific cultures with both Melanesian and Polynesian influences, with a dash of Indian influence as well.

Given its size and population, it is also one of the most important countries in the region.

Learn more about Fiji, its history, and its culture on this episode of Everything Everywhere Daily.

I’m sure that most of you have at least heard of Fiji, and based on the feedback I got on the Facebook group, some of you have been there.

Compared to other countries I’ve covered in the region, such as Tuvalu and Kiribati, Fiji is much larger and much better known.

Let’s start with the geography of Fiji.

Fiji is an archipelago located in the South Pacific Ocean, roughly 2,000 kilometers or 1,300 miles northeast of New Zealand and east of Australia. It consists of more than 330 islands, of which about 110 are permanently inhabited, along with over 500 smaller islets scattered across an area of approximately 1.3 million square kilometers of ocean.

In terms of land area, Fiji is slightly smaller than Slovenia and slightly larger than Kuwait.

The two largest islands, Viti Levu and Vanua Levu, account for nearly 90 percent of Fiji’s total landmass. Viti Levu, the political and economic hub, is home to the capital city of Suva as well as the international airport at Nadi on the western coast. Vanua Levu, to the northeast, is more rural and mountainous, with a landscape dominated by tropical forests and river systems.

Fiji’s islands are largely volcanic in origin, with rugged interiors marked by steep mountains, highlands, and deep river valleys, especially on Viti Levu where Mount Tomanivi, the country’s highest peak, rises to 1,324 meters or 4,344 feet. In contrast to the mountainous terrain of the main islands, many of the smaller outer islands are low-lying coral atolls and limestone formations, often ringed by white sandy beaches and fringing reefs.

The Cakaulevu Reef off the north of the island of Vanua Levu is the third largest barrier reef in the world after the Great Barrier Reef in Australia and the Mesoamerican Reef off Central America.

I’ve personally been diving and snorkeling in Fiji several times, and I’ve seen some of the best, most colorful coral there than I have anywhere else on Earth.

Fiji’s climate is tropical marine, with a hot and humid wet season from November to April and a cooler, drier season from May to October. Cyclones are a seasonal threat, particularly during the wet season. Overall, Fiji’s geography combines volcanic soil, lush rainforests, rich coastal ecosystems, and expansive oceanic territory, making it one of the most diverse island environments in the South Pacific.

The first settlers of Fiji arrived approximately 3,500 years ago, likely from Melanesia. These early inhabitants developed what became known as the Lapita culture, named after their distinctive pottery. By 1000 BC, permanent settlements were established across the Fijian archipelago.

The indigenous Fijians developed a complex social structure based on kinship and clans. Their society was organized into vanua, which were land-based social units, clans, and clan subdivisions. Chiefs held significant authority in this hierarchical system.

Traditional Fijian culture featured impressive seafaring capabilities, with double-hulled canoes called drua capable of inter-island voyages. Religious practices centered around ancestor worship and various gods, with priests serving as spiritual intermediaries.

Warfare was common between various clans during this period. Cannibalism was ritually practiced, often associated with warfare and religious beliefs.

Fiji was initially called the cannibal islands by Europeans who first visited.

Fiji’s decentralized structure made it very different from neighboring Tonga, which had a more centralized monarchy. Chiefs in Fiji commanded immense loyalty, but no single ruler held sway over the entire archipelago.

The Dutch explorer Abel Tasman sighted Fiji in 1643, but he never landed. Europeans had limited interaction with the islands until the late 18th century. Captain James Cook briefly visited in 1774, and Captain William Bligh navigated through the archipelago after the infamous Bounty mutiny in 1789.

It wasn’t until the late 18th and early 19th centuries that Europeans began to have sustained contact. European traders, whalers, shipwrecked sailors, and adventurers began to arrive.

Christian missionaries arrived in the 1830s, with the Wesleyan Methodist Mission establishing a permanent presence by 1835. Conversion to Christianity gradually spread throughout the islands.

One of Fiji’s most powerful chiefs, Ratu Seru Epenisa Cakobau, declared himself Tui Viti or the King of Fiji in 1871, seeking to unify the islands under his rule. With the support of European settlers and the backing of Australian cotton planters (especially after the American Civil War disrupted U.S. cotton exports), Cakobau attempted to create a constitutional monarchy.

Mounting debts to American traders and concerns about American intervention led Cakobau and other chiefs to cede Fiji to Great Britain on October 10, 1874. Fiji became a British Crown Colony under Governor Sir Arthur Gordon, who implemented a policy of indirect rule that preserved indigenous land ownership and established separate governance systems for indigenous Fijians and settlers.

Under British rule, Fiji became a plantation economy focused on sugarcane production. To supply labor for these plantations, the British brought over indentured laborers from India beginning in 1879. Over 60,000 Indians arrived between 1879 and 1916 under the “girmit” system.

The term “girmit” is a local adaptation of the word “agreement. ” It refers to the labor contracts the Indian workers signed, often without fully understanding the terms. These agreements typically bound the laborers—known as “girmityas”—to work for five years under strict conditions, with the promise of return passage or land grants upon completion.

Many faced harsh working environments, racial discrimination, and limited rights. After their contracts expired, a significant number of girmityas chose to remain in Fiji, and their descendants now form a substantial part of the country’s population, contributing deeply to its cultural, economic, and political life.

Today, 37.5% of the country is Indo-Fijian.

Colonial authorities ruled indirectly through traditional chiefs using a system modeled on indirect rule seen elsewhere in the British Empire. Fiji remained relatively stable, and by the 20th century, Suva developed into a modern colonial capital. Roads, schools, and hospitals were constructed, but many indigenous Fijians remained in rural villages under customary law.

As Indian-Fijians grew in number and began to demand more rights, tensions emerged between the two ethnic communities, exacerbated by competing interests in land, still largely communally owned by native Fijians, and political power.

During World War II, Fiji— which was still a British colony—played a strategically important role in the Pacific theater despite its small size and remote location. Although it was not invaded or occupied by enemy forces, the war had significant effects on the islands, both militarily and socially.

When war broke out in the Pacific following Japan’s attack on Pearl Harbor in December 1941, Fiji’s importance as a potential staging ground and supply route increased dramatically due to its location between North America and Australia.

Indigenous Fijian soldiers were recruited into the Fiji Infantry Regiment, which saw active combat in the Solomon Islands campaign, including in places like Bougainville.

To defend Fiji against the threat of Japanese invasion, Allied military forces—particularly from New Zealand and the United States—established military bases, airfields, and fortifications across the islands. The U.S. Navy and Army built significant infrastructure in areas like Nadi, Suva, and Namaka, which helped improve roads, communications, and other facilities.

The presence of foreign troops also had a lasting social and economic impact. The war brought modernization to many parts of Fiji through the introduction of new technologies, vehicles, and building methods. It also exposed Fijians to new ideas and political awareness, helping lay the groundwork for future nationalist movements.

After the war, many returned soldiers—both Fijian and Indo-Fijian—began to question the colonial status quo, contributing to the growing push for political reform in the postwar years.

So, while Fiji was spared the devastation suffered by other Pacific islands, World War II marked a turning point in its social development and global connections.

By the mid-20th century, Fiji’s population was almost evenly split between Indigenous Fijians and Indo-Fijians. Political reforms began after World War II, and Indo-Fijian leaders like A.D. Patel called for greater representation and a common electoral roll, while Fijian chiefs sought to retain traditional privileges and communal representation.

Negotiations between British authorities, Fijian chiefs, and Indian leaders led to a compromise. On October 10, 1970, Fiji gained independence as a parliamentary democracy within the Commonwealth. Ratu Sir Kamisese Mara became the first Prime Minister.

Fiji’s post-independence history has been marked by political instability stemming from ethnic tensions. In May 1987, Lieutenant Colonel Sitiveni Rabuka led Fiji’s first military coup, overthrowing the newly elected coalition government led by Dr. Timoci Bavadra, which had substantial Indo-Fijian support. A second coup followed in September 1987.

A new constitution in 1990 ensured indigenous Fijian political dominance but faced international criticism for its discriminatory nature. After significant pressure, a more balanced constitution was implemented in 1997.

In May 2000, businessman George Speight led another coup, holding Prime Minister Mahendra Chaudhry and his government hostage for 56 days. The military, led by Commodore Frank Bainimarama, eventually restored order and installed an interim government.

Bainimarama himself seized power in December 2006, citing corruption concerns. He abrogated the constitution in 2009 and ruled by decree until 2014, when Fiji held its first democratic elections since the coup. Bainimarama’s FijiFirst party won a parliamentary majority, and he became the democratically elected Prime Minister.

In December 2022, following another election, Sitiveni Rabuka returned to power as Prime Minister, ending Bainimarama’s 16-year rule.

I should note that despite the several coups that Fiji has faced, it has never suffered any widespread violence or civil wars that have afflicted countries with similar problems.

A few other things about Fiji….

Most of you probably think of the brand of water when you hear the word Fiji.

Fiji Water was founded in 1996 by Canadian businessman David Gilmour, who saw an opportunity to market premium bottled water sourced from the remote Yaqara Valley on the island of Viti Levu in Fiji. The water comes from an artesian aquifer located beneath a rainforest, which the company claims is protected from pollution and human contact until it is bottled at the source. Promoted as exceptionally pure and mineral-rich,

Fiji Water quickly gained popularity in high-end markets, aided by sleek packaging and aggressive marketing campaigns targeting celebrities, upscale restaurants, and health-conscious consumers.

Another thing that Fiji is well known for is rugby. Their rugby union national team has done well in international competitions. They’ve made it as far as the quarterfinals at the rugby world cup, and as of the time of this recording, they are ranked in the top ten in the world.

However, where they have really shone is in rugby 7s.

They have won the Hong Kong sevens tournament a record 19 times, three gold medals at the rugby 7s World Cup, and in the three Olympics where rugby sevens competitions have been held, Fiji has made the finals every time and has come away with two gold medals and a silver.

The final thing I should address is tourism. Tourism is the biggest industry in Fiji for obvious reasons. I’ve been to Fiji several times, and I often suggest it when people ask me places to visit.

If you are from Australia or New Zealand, you are probably more familiar with Fiji because it is, proverbially, in your backyard. Those countries are the biggest sources of visitors.

However, I often recommend it to people I meet in North America who might otherwise never think of visiting. Yes, the flight is a bit longer, but there are direct flights from Los Angeles, and you arrive in the morning at the international airport in Nadi.

I recommend it to Americans because most Kiwis and Aussies visit during their winter, which is the North American summer. Thus, the low season for tourism in Fiji is the North American winter.

There are a host of options available from the ultra-high end to budget accommodations.

My favorite place to stay is the Yasawa Islands, which are a chain of islands to the west of the main island of Viti Levu. There are a couple of dozen resorts in these islands, many of which are very low-cost and are run by local villages.

The people are wonderful and the food is great. If you want to know what it is like, just check out the movie The Blue Lagoon, which was shot in the Yasawa Islands.

These are not necessarily luxury accommodations, but who cares when you are sleeping 20 feet from the water in paradise?

Also, because of its size, Fiji is sort of the hub for the region, with flights to most of the other countries and islands in the region.

Fiji’s a great place, and if possible, I try to stay for a few days when I’m flying to or from Australia just to break up the flight.

Fiji is unique amongst Pacific countries. It is technically part of Melanisia, but it has had a lot of cultural influence from Polynesian islands. Its unique history, its stunning geography, and its friendly people make it one of my personal favorite places in the world.