Like Taking Roast Lamb On A Stick From Strangers

I had an experience yesterday which was interesting to say the least. In the morning I checked out of my room and walked several kilometers to the Nizwa Fort. I could have taken a taxi, but I figured the walk would do me good. When I got back I got my bags and went out to the road to hail a taxi. Some guy pulled up to me offered to give me a ride.

Actually, I only assumed he was offering me a ride as he spoke no English and I spoke no Arabic. I was only going a short distance to the roundabout down the road where taxis would wait to take people to Muscat. Muscat is about 90 minutes from Nizwa and the cost of a taxi seemed pretty cheap from what everyone has told me.

The man who picked me up told me he was going to Muscat and would drive me there. By “told me” we sort of gestured and figured out what we were saying to each other. He had to get his car washed then we could go. His name was Fazid (I think. Again, that wasn’t totally clear).

We were supposed to be ready in 30 min, so we went to a coffee shop nearby and had something to eat. (the coffee shops here seem to be more diners or restaurants than cafes). We got some saffron rice and chicken. I offered to pay but he refused.

I must admit my American travel sense was tingling. As an American, you are raised to be suspicious of anyone offering you anything: candy, free rides, free vacations in exchange for listening to a time share pitch, or five CDs for only a penny, are all things which should be viewed cautiously. I had no idea if this guy was a serial killer or what. Then again, only a American would probably assume that someone trying to help was a serial killer….but I digress.

After two hours, the car was washed and we were ready to go. This entire ride was only going to save me about $6, so I easily could have said “thanks but no thanks” and taken a taxi, but I decided to go with it. (As an aside, all the cars in Oman are really, really clean. They give tickets for unwashed cars. Likewise, all the buildings are clean and look as if they have been recently painted.)

We took off down the very nice highway to Muscat. The Nizwa/Muscat highway is as good or better than any stretch of interstate you will find in the US. Four lanes, divided road, on ramps and off ramps, and most of the road has lighting. He put in a CD of the only music he had which was in English for me, which turned out to be some of the nastiest hard core rap I’ve ever heard. I had no idea who the artists were, but one song was from Eminem. The funny thing is he probably had no idea what they were saying.

As we were going down the road, the sun set and he eventually turned off the road. He said something in Arabic but I didn’t understand. Was he taking a short cut? Was he stopping to see relatives? Was he going to the ditch he was going to dump my dead body into? I had no clue.

We ended up going through a small town where he pulled over to buy some lamb kebobs from a vendor on the street. Again I tried to pay, but he refused any money. We pulled out again and eventually got back onto the highway.

Eventually as we got to Muscat I told him I was going to Ruwi, where I wanted to stay. I don’t know where in Muscat he was going or if Ruwi was far out of his way, but he gladly took me there, dropped me off, shook hands, and left.

Since I’ve been in the Middle East, I’ve met surprisingly few Arabs. Most of the people I met in Dubai were Indian, Pakistani or Filipino. In Oman I’ve met western tourists and here to most of the people you deal with in hotels and restaurants are Indian. Fazid was the first Arab I’ve been able to spend any time with…..and we couldn’t speak a word to each other.

In the end, he bought me lunch, a kebob, drove me to Muscat and paid for gas. He didn’t accept any money nor expected anything in return. He just picked me up off the street and drove me 160km.

When people ask me if as an American I’m scared of being in the Middle East, I’m going to tell them about Fazid. Not only is there nothing to be scared of, these are some of the nicest, most generous people you will meet on Earth.

Purnululu National Park

World Heritage Site #40: Purnululu National Park
Purnululu National Park: My 40th UNESCO World Heritage Site

From the World Heritage inscription for Purnululu National Park:

Purnululu NationalPark, located in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, covers almost 240,000 hectares of remote area managed as wilderness. It includes the Bungle Bungle Range, a spectacularly incised landscape of sculptured rocks which contains superlative examples of beehive-shaped karst sandstone rising 250 meters above the surrounding semi-arid savannah grasslands. Unique depositional processes and weathering have given these towers their spectacular black and orange banded appearance, formed by biological processes of cyanobacteria (single cell photosynthetic organisms) which serve to stabilize and protect the ancient sandstone formations. These outstanding examples of cone karst that have eroded over a period of 20 million years are of great beauty and exceptional geological interest.

Although Purnululu National Park has not been widely known in Australia until recently and remains relatively inaccessible, it has become recognized internationally for its exceptional natural beauty. The prime scenic attraction is the extraordinary array of banded, beehive-shaped cone towers comprising the Bungle Bungle Range. These have become emblematic of the park and are internationally renowned for Australia’s natural attractions. The dramatically sculptured structures, unrivaled in their scale, extent, grandeur and diversity of form anywhere in the world, undergo remarkable daily and seasonal variation in appearance, including striking color transition following rain and with the positioning of the sun. The intricate maze of towers is accentuated by sinuous, narrow, sheer-sided gorges lined with majestic Livistona fan palms. These and the soaring cliffs up to 250 meters high are cut by seasonal waterfalls and pools, creating the major tourist attractions in the park with evocative names such as Echidna Chasm, Piccaninny, and Cathedral Gorges. The diversity of landforms and ecosystems elsewhere in the park are representative of the semi-arid landscape in which Purnululu is located and provide a sympathetic visual buffer for the massif.

Purnululu National ParkPurnululu is hard to get to. It is in the outback of the outback. It is three hours from the Turkey Creek roadhouse (truck stop), which is three hours from the town of Kununurra….which is in the middle of nowhere.

The primary attraction of Purnululu are the erosional features of the Bungle Bungles. The beehive domes are the most famous feature, but the gorges are also stunning. The photo above is of Cathedral Gorge. Click on the photo to see the larger version of the photo get a sense of scale. The woman is the photo was our bus driver/tour guide for the day.

Purnululu is only open a few months each year during the dry season. During the wet season, the creeks can get very high with very rapid currents.


Purnululu National Park is a Natural UNESCO World Heritage Site located in Western Australia’s East Kimberley region. The national park measures at nearly 234,000 hectares in land area. The park was established in 1987 but was inscribed into the UNESCO list in 2003. It is currently managed by the WA Department of Parks and Wildlife.

Purnululu National Park

The Purnululu National Park is best known for the Bungle Bungle Range or sandstone domes that rise 578 meters above sea level. These domes also exhibit an alternating stripe of orange and grey bands that make these domes more visually striking than they already are.

How to Get Here

To get to Purnululu National Park, you can travel by road via the Spring Creek Track. By the end of this track, you will find the park’s visitor center. The track is 53 kilometers in length and is accessible only during dry season. It is therefore recommended that you check the weather or season prior to your planned visit, especially if you wish to access this track to get to the park.

There are also helicopter flights that provide service to the Purnululu National Park. This is a less demanding way to travel and you can take off from the Bellburn Airstrip.

About the Purnululu National Park

Purnululu National Park

Australia is not alien to unique landscape and geological formations. However, Purnululu National Park and its Bungle Bungle Range are a unique specimen. The sandstone towers, domes and banded beehive structures are a result of millions of years of weathering and erosion. The bands that appear on the sandstone domes were due to the presence of cyanobacteria, which provides a beautiful contrast against the light orange color of the sandstone. Cyanobacteria is one of the oldest life forms on Earth; hence, this speaks to the number of years that these structures had evolved.

Another interesting feature about the beehive domes and sandstone towers at Purnululu National Park is that the appearance changes with every season. Even after the rain, the colors of the towers and domes change remarkably.

The scientific value of the karst and sandstone formations at Purnululu National Park isn’t to be dismissed either. For more than 25 years, geomorphologists have studied the cone karst formation on the sandstone and they have not come into a conclusion about what could have caused this natural phenomenon yet.

Purnululu National ParkAside from the towering domes and sandstone structures at Purnululu National Park, there are several other notable landscape and geological formations at the park. From gorges and waterfalls, you can find the most picturesque outback landscapes in this national park. Scientists believe that the variety of biological features within the park showcases how the neighboring desert environment and rainfall-rich zones adapt to the season.

Guide to Exploring the Park

There are several ways to explore Purnululu National Park. You can find this guide to help map out your itinerary:

  • If you can, hire a flight over the park so you can enjoy the imposing sight of the Bungle Bungle Range and the surrounding landscape.
  • Several visitors explore the Purnululu National Park on foot and most explore the Piccaninny Creek route. Some even take an overnight camping experience.
  • There are two campgrounds in the park: Kurrajong and Walardi. If you plan to camp, you need to carry your food and water since there are no nearby shops to get your supplies from.
  • The last 53 kilometers of the park consists of a rugged terrain. This area of the park is only accessible by 4WD vehicles.

View the complete list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Australia.

View the list of all of the UNESCO World Heritage sites I have visited on my travels.

Last updated: Aug 1, 2017 @ 10:08 pm